Crossing Turkmenistan Overland in 2024
Everything you need to know about crossing Turkmenistan overland in 2024. Transit vs Tourist Visas, LOI, Agencies, BlackMarket Exchange and border procedures. Here's a detailed breakdown of our experience crossing Turkmenistan overland from to Bagjiran/Ashgabat to Dasoguz/Shavat (UZ) Border in 2024.
Camels in front of Darvaza Crater, Turkmenistan — © Rick ELMOS 2024
Crossing Turkmenistan overland has become quite pricey since the COVID pandemic. They do not give out transit visas anymore and require you to go through a local travel agency and plan for every mile of your trip.
During our journey from Paris to Sydney we used such travel agency and here is a detailed breakdown of our experience crossing Turkmenistan overland from to Bagjiran/Ashgabat to Dasoguz/Shavat (UZ) Border in 2024. Everything you need to know about crossing Turkmenistan. Transit vs Tourist Visas, LOI, Agencies, BlackMarket Exchange and detailed border procedures.
Things to Know:
Visa Requirements
Letter of Invitation (LOI): For a tourist visa, you'll typically need a Letter of Invitation from a licensed travel agency in Turkmenistan. This is a crucial document that can take several weeks to process.
Transit Visa: Though some lucky individuals have received a transit Visa in 2024 from the Embassy in Yerevan, it is extremely rare.
UPDATE JULY 2024: According to the General Consul at the Embassy in Yerevan, all Turkmen Embassies have been directed to suspend the issue of transit visa until further notice.
Border Crossings
Popular Border Crossings:
Iran: The main crossing is at Bajgiran (Iran) to Gaudan (Turkmenistan). There is also a possibility of crossing at the less used Sarakhs (IRN) to Serakhs (TKM).
Uzbekistan: Crossings are from Khiva (Uzbekistan) to Dashoguz (Turkmenistan) and Farap (UZB) to Turkmenabat (TKM) or Khojayli (UZB) to Konye-Urgench (TKM).
Kazakhstan: Closed since June 2018 until further notice.
Border Procedures: Be prepared for thorough checks at borders. Ensure all your documents are in order, and be patient as border procedures can take time. Have pristine dollars with you.For 100$ bills make sure it’s the “blue ribbon” kind. Ask to see the receipt before giving out the cash. Make sure it matches the price announced orally. Don’t be afraid to ask questions as for why you are paying this and that.
Key Destinations
Ashgabat: The capital city is known for its marble buildings, grand monuments, and unique architecture. Check out the “old” and “new” Ashgabat.
Darvaza Gas Crater: Also known as the "Door to Hell," this burning natural gas field is a popular stop on the way north.
Ancient Sites: Merv, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and Konye-Urgench are interesting historical locations.
Travel Tips
Local Currency: The Turkmenistan manat (TMT) is the local currency. Carry enough cash as ATMs are scarce, and credit cards are not widely accepted. Dollars can be used to pay everywhere. Note that there are two exchange rates much like in Iran. Black market rate is much more interesting. Ask you guide once in a discreet location and they might be able to help you.
Language: Turkmen is the official language. Russian is also widely spoken. English is not common outside tourist areas.
Health and Safety: Ensure you have travel insurance that covers health and emergency evacuation. Carry necessary medications, as pharmacies may not stock all items you need.
Connectivity: Internet access is limited and slow. Our agency advised us against getting a local SIM card as it it very expensive. You will need a VPN for social networks and many websites. Not many work.
Drones & Camera Equipement: Drones are illegal in Turkmenistan but cameras and action cameras are not a problem. Do not film/photograph sensitive areas like borders, police stations or the President Palace. Don’t worry you’ll be reminded by your guide what you can and cannot do.
Drive On: The Right (mostly).
Current Travel Conditions
Before traveling, check for any updates on travel restrictions or safety advisories. Turkmenistan’s policies can change rapidly, and it’s important to stay informed about the latest requirements and conditions.
Short Breakdown:
110$ for VISA on arrival valid for 10 Days + COVID test + "Ripping you off Service Fees"
185$ Motorcycle Entry Fees + Insurance (Valid 3 months) + “Ripping you off Fees"
415$ to StanTrips for 3 days:
Day 1: Entry procedure w/ Guide, Arrival in Ashgabat + City Tour + Night in Dbl Room at Ak Altyn Hotel 3*.
Day 2: Departure 1.00 PM with driver escort only to Darvaza Gas Crater. 1h lunch break. We reached the yurt camp at 5.30 PM , BBQ Dinner.
Day 3: 7.30 AM departure to Dasoguz/Shavat border. 1h lunch-break. Arrival at 3 PM. Exit Procedure without guide.
16$ Exit Fees for 1 Motorcycle (they did not make us pay for the 2nd Motorcycle, read below)
~15$ for our fuel (2 motos), lunch and some random snacks.
~15$ Tip to our Driver Escort.
More or less 720$ per person for 3 days.
Offroad track towards the “Door to Hell”.
The Whole Experience crossing Turkmenistan Overland in 2024.
Here's a detailed breakdown of our experience crossing Turkmenistan overland from to Bagjiran/Ashgabat to Dasoguz/Shavat (UZ) Border.
I got in touch with StanTrips about two weeks before crossing, received the LOI three days before our set date. I was asked to print two copies. We agreed on removing the guide on day 2 and 3 to save some money.
DAY 1:
We reached the border at 8:30 AM Iran Time, got our Carnet de Passage stamped out, Passport checked, returned our paper Visas, answered some questions to a border officer and left Iran. This took about 30min.
On the Turkmen side, after checking our passport we were asked to drive through a small pool to "clean our tyres", we then parked our motorcycles and went straight to do a Covid Antigenic Test (it is not PCR). The test is a joke, they barely swabbed my mouth.
We then wanted to start the VISA procedure but they asked us to call our Guide and wouldn't start the procedure without him.
After his arrival, we answered a bunch of questions to an immigration officer. The classic questions: “where do you live?”, “what's your job?” and so on as well as some less classic ones like "do you have spare tyres? " they were happy with our answer of “no but we have stuff to fix them in case of punctures”.
After this we went to the "bank office" to pay the “bankman” for our visa, covid test and some added nonsense fees.
He quickly summarised the total using his calculator. Total = 110$ for one person.
I know the Visa was 55$ (French citizens) and using all the random receipts he gave me I cannot add back to that same amount. It’s either more or less…It’s a Turkmen Mystery.
We then went to another office, this time for the Motorcycle import.
There we had to show our passports with our brand new Turkmen visas, our Registration papers and show on the map the route we will take. The entry fee varies depending on your route and how many kilometres you will drive through the country.
After some time staring at the strange display of national emblems and truck calendars while the agent filled out our information in 4 or 5 different logbooks, the bankman entered again and asked us to pay 185$.
Vehicules Disinfecting 1$
Entry and Transit Passage 25$
For Compensation of Fuel Costs 119$
Third Party Insurance 15$ (Valid 3months)
For Processing entry Permit 5$
Ripping you off nonsense Fees 20$
Total 185$ per Motorcycle.
Now each 295$ lighter, we were ready to proceed to the last part, vehicle inspection. This was unexpectedly quick and sloppy.
They asked us to open our bags, briefly looked at whatever was on top and said it was ok.
The entire process took about 3.5 hours. It was now 2:00 PM Turkmenistan Time, and we were ready to leave for Ashgabat.
However, an Italian tourist arrived, and our guide needed to assist him as his own guide was stuck outside the gate. We had to wait for him to complete the same process.
Interesting side note : the Italian had a drone, and after hours of deliberation, they sealed it and allowed him to enter the country with it.
It was now 5:30 PM. We followed our guide’s car to the parking lot where we were supposed to leave our motorbikes (something about motorcycles not being “allowed” in Ashgabat), but it was closed. So, we rode to our hotel parking lot instead. The police did not seem to care.
We then went for a quick somsa dinner offered to us by our guide (he refused our request to pay) and onto the city tour. We exchanged 30$ into manat on the black market. It gave us 390 Manats. Rate was 13 for 1 Dollar.
We were back at 9 PM at the hotel and agreed on a 1PM departure the following day.
DAY 2:
We met our escorting driver in front of the hotel and left on time.
The first 100 km out of Ashgabat are ok.
The next 50km are bad,
The rest is Terrible.
Our escorting driver was zig-zag non stop in front of us trying to avoid potholes, we would do the same.
Be prepared to have incoming traffic on your side of the road as locals take the "least destroyed” portion of the road no matter where it is.
The road is in terrible conditions once outside Ashgabat.
We took an hour break at the YERBENT fuel station for our driver to eat.
This is the last fuel stop before the RUHULEBENT fuel station. With the detour to the crater, this distance is about 330 km. So If you have a short range motorbike plan accordingly.
We then stopped at some other “craters” before reaching Dervaza’s Gas Crater around 5:30 PM. The dirt road to the crater isn’t difficult, but there are small sand patches and pockets to watch out for.
Dinner was a hearty BBQ, and it wasn’t so bad.
We agreed with our escorting driver on a 7:30 AM departure the next morning.
DAY 3:
We left on time after a quick breakfast.
The road between Darvaza and Dasoguz is a freaking minefield. Built around 1992, it has supposedly never been maintained, or so the urban myth goes.
We stopped an hour for lunch and reached the border at 3 PM.
We gave the remaining 200 Manat we had to our escorting driver and went on to do our exit procedures.
We were greeted by a young border officer who spoke English. He asked where our guide was, and we told him we didn’t have one. He stayed with us to help translate and took us to a desk. There, a clerk asked us to pay $10 cash for our motorcycles’ exit procedures. I asked for a receipt, and he handed me a random piece of paper. I told him I wouldn’t pay him directly, only the “bank man.” After he tried to call our guide to explain why we should pay him, I insisted on paying only at the bank. He finally gave me an official paper to take to the bank, where they asked for $16 for one motorcycle. The young english-speaking border officer, who seemed sorry for us, told me that his “gift” to us was to charge us for only one motorcycle.
In the end, it would have been cheaper to pay the baksheesh, but I’m glad we didn’t as it would only encourage this practice.
After another lazy inspection of our luggages we exited to Uzbekistan. It took about 30 min.
In Conclusion
So it took us 3 days and about 720 dollars per person to cross Turkmenistan.
It’s a very expensive option, a total ripoff in my opinion. Afghanistan was not an option for us and I believe it isn’t for many Overlanders, they know it and take advantage of this situation.
At the border, ask to see the receipt before giving out the cash. Make sure it matches the price announced orally. Don’t be afraid to ask questions as for why you are paying this and that. Somehow they can make “mistakes”. They will probably have an answer for why it’s 20$ more but it’s always good to try.
If you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out to me.
